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Raicilla: The Lively Drink (First of two parts)

by Ariadna Cossío | published: 9/14/2007

Raicilla is the basic ingredient associated with the love for the land of Jalisco that dates back to its beginnings. The inspiration which springs from its taste is inscribed in the land shaped by the hands of the artisans who carefully crafted its development and permanent place in the heart of anyone who has ever tasted it; a gift to the gods and priests; a name that was forced into hiding during the pernicious foreign ban of any traditionally Mexican spirit.

Raicilla is an alcoholic beverage that originates here in this region, and is the result of distilling the juice of the Agave Lechuguilla plant. A series of strange myths have evolved around it that spur the imagination of those who imbibe and have surrounded this liquor in shackles of regulation and illegality. However, beyond the popular belief, it is true that any visit to Puerto Vallarta and its environs would not be complete without learning about the story of raicilla and of course, for the more adventurous; a proper tasting.

The Origins of Raicilla

Long before the arrival of the Spanish on Mexican soil, the extract of the agave plant was considered the elixir of priests and warriors; it was a beer-like drink. Upon the Spanish arrival in Mexico, the conquistadors brought the process of distillation that has been improved upon over the years.

During the colonial period, the production of wines or other alcoholic beverages was prohibited by the Spanish, favoring products from Europe. One night at a “tabernero” (bartender) in San Sebastián del Oeste, legend has it, there was a man that everyone knew was processing agave into an alcoholic drink) who, scoffing at the standing ban on local drinks, decided to call the distilled version "raicilla" since the name had no connection with any alcoholic beverage.

Agave; the Raw Material for Raicilla

During Philip II, King of Spain’s visit in Mexico, he discovered the maguey plant. A botanist then studied it and found many medicinal and artisan characteristics and imported it to Europe and named his new “discovery” agave. Ágave was the name of a follower of Bacchus, the God of Wine, and a doctor later determined agave had many health benefits along with the pleasure of drinking the potion.
There are 236 varieties of agave in the world with 136 varieties native to Mexico. In Mexico City, there is an institution called CONABIO, which is devoted to the investigation of biodiversity and has so far classified some 400 varieties of aloes, only in Mexico.
It is noteworthy that not all the aloes can be distilled into an alcoholic beverage. Just a few of the distilled agave-based beverages – whether tequila, mezcal, baconara, sotol, or raicilla – are produced already aged; since it takes seven to ten years for the plant to reach maturity before it can be processed. That is why any agave-based beverage is produced already fine and aged.

Myth Vs Reality

Stories surrounding the consumption of the raicilla are somewhat distorted. When visitors to the area, unfamiliar with raicilla, over indulge, it is very common for them to regard it as a hallucinogenic or harmful drink. Many others believe that the raicilla is simply a waste of good tequila.
This is false. It is a natural and organic drink which, like any other when ingested in excess, has intoxicating effects. However, it should be noted that, as with any other alcoholic beverage, there are “moonshine” versions of raicilla. Many “taberneros” do not have the necessary knowledge or equipment to properly monitor the alcohol level and serve their raicilla with an excessively high alcohol content. It is sometimes sold in a clandestine manner with an alcohol content of anywhere between 45 and 50%. Only when all “raicilla is submitted to quality control testing will this practice disappear.
Another myth is that raicilla is prohibited. The reality is, as we have mentioned, the clandestine sale of illegally produced “home brew”; sale made under the table, avoiding applicable taxes. Some think raicilla as the elixir of eternal youth. There are many people in Mexico, especially among the elderly, who are accustomed to taking a teaspoon of raicilla every morning and say it makes them feel much better.
Another misperception is that a good raicilla must be very strong and burn the throat. On the contrary, with suitable quality control, the taste can be very smooth and pleasant.

In part 2, we will discuss the production of raicilla and introduce you to a local producer whose efforts are aimed at making raicilla a product of prestige and quality for export.

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